April 11, 2013 11:24 am
The Island of Vieques off the eastern coast of Puerto Rico does not have any traffic lights. There are no McDonald’s, Wal-Marts, or any other mega-monstrosities. There are two gas stations on the island, though you have to pay cash. And surprisingly, there is a commuter airport for planes flying in from surrounding islands, though we much preferred the $2 ferry ride from Fajardo.
The population is small. Roughly 8,000 people live on the 21-mile long by 4-mile wide island. When we talked to the man who rented us a house he said, “There are probably more wild horses on the island than there are cars. They come up to the house on occasion. Just shoo them away.” My daughter’s eyes grew large just thinking about it. We were sold.
There are two small towns in Vieques: Isabel Segundo, and Esperanza. They are roughly five miles apart. Isabel is the capital city of the island and is where you’ll find the schools, post office, a few shops, and a wonderful little orange bakery called Panaderia.
Esperanza is more touristy, though it is barely more than a strip of outdoor eateries along the boardwalk. It is inhabited by more dogs than people, as far as I could tell. The dogs wait patiently by the restaurants, hoping for scraps, and getting enough so that they’re well-trained and well-behaved and amply rewarded by the relaxed beachgoers sipping rum drinks every night.
Lazy Jack’s in Esperanza
Vieques is known for its Bioluminescent Bay; the brightest one in the world, and the reason many people come to Vieques in the first place. Getting to it requires nerves of steel and something akin to a Jeep to traverse the rugged offroad that leads into the bay. I’ll share more about that later.
Many of the beaches require Jeep access, too. The natural beaches are remote, wild, and secluded. Chances are that you’ll see wild horses on your way there as well as on the sand. They seem to inhabit the roads at night even more abundantly than during the day.
But the mornings are for roosters. And chickens. Most of the roosters don’t seem to tell time; they crow all day. Perhaps they’re rousing everyone from their luxurious, lazy days at the beach. They don’t seem to care that everyone ignores them. It’s always island time on Vieques. No need to rush.
Rooster Crosses the Road
This is simply the welcome to Vieques paradise. More to come. Meanwhile, you’ll be happy to know that we’ve finally answered the age-old question “Why did the chicken cross the road?”
Why, to get to the beach, of course!
Posted by Browsing the Atlas
Categories: Puerto Rico
Tags: Bio Bay, dogs, Esperanza, ferry, horses, Isabel, Isla de Vieques, island, Puerto Rico, roosters
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This is going to be a fun adventure for you!
By megtraveling on April 11, 2013 at 12:19 pm
And so unlike my hurried, hectic vacations where I try to cram in as many sights as possible. Should be awesome!
By Browsing the Atlas on April 11, 2013 at 1:59 pm
Sounds wonderful! Looking forward to the rest…
By Margaret on April 11, 2013 at 1:54 pm
Enjoying these postings so much Julie. I looked up how to make Puerto Rican coffee — but it didn’t taste the same that you can be sure of ! Vieques looks so picturesque and laid back. Perfect!!!
By nancy miller on April 11, 2013 at 1:59 pm
I hope what you made was at least good, Nancy. I know it can’t possibly taste the same, but “good enough” will be good enough for me.
By Browsing the Atlas on April 11, 2013 at 2:25 pm
Sounds heavenly! I want to go there!!!! Can’t wait to read more about Vieques Julie.
By Marilyn Teal on April 11, 2013 at 2:08 pm
Go there, Marilyn. You won’t regret it.
By Browsing the Atlas on April 11, 2013 at 2:24 pm
Heaven. Pure heaven
By Vancyne on April 11, 2013 at 2:54 pm
A place you’d like to live in, right?
By Browsing the Atlas on April 11, 2013 at 3:43 pm
I have never heard of Vieques, but it certainly caught my attention! Sounds so remote and VERY relaxing!
By lem0nandlime on April 11, 2013 at 3:26 pm
It is more remote than I expected it to be, knowing that it is one of the few places in the world to do a Bio Bay tour.
By Browsing the Atlas on April 11, 2013 at 3:43 pm
Wow. Sounds like paradise.
By Lane on April 11, 2013 at 3:37 pm
Insanely jealous of your adventures. And all that warmth and sun! Sigh, if only more places could run on island time. Taiwan is technically an island but most people here are definitely on its-always-rush-hour time.
By lillianccc on April 12, 2013 at 3:07 am
Yes, this was more laid back than other places I’ve been. The island is really not developed much at all.
By Browsing the Atlas on April 12, 2013 at 11:02 am
Wonderful post! Love the ending. 🙂
By Maddie Cochere on April 12, 2013 at 6:52 am
Thanks. 🙂 It’s the thought that kept running through my head every time I saw a chicken on the road –which was pretty often.
By Browsing the Atlas on April 12, 2013 at 11:01 am
Your pics are lovely. And, LOL on the chicken joke at the end…nice!
By Britt Skrabanek on April 12, 2013 at 12:16 pm
Thanks. 🙂
By Browsing the Atlas on April 12, 2013 at 7:38 pm
Just got back from a weeklong trip over Easter. It was really crowded! (there were at least 18-20 people at Navio beach!) I don’t recommend going during Holy Week but it was our kids time off school. Coolest island in the Carib. It was my 5th time and I ran into several other Buckeyes there as well.
By Guido on April 12, 2013 at 5:18 pm
I am chuckling to myself because I know exactly what you mean: 18-20 people at Navio Beach? Crowded. Anywhere else in the world, that would be a deserted beach. 🙂
I agree: Coolest Island in the Carib.
By Browsing the Atlas on April 12, 2013 at 7:38 pm
I really fancy a lazy breakfast at ‘Lazy Jacks’. 🙂
By adinparadise on April 15, 2013 at 8:08 pm
Wouldn’t that be heavenly?
By Browsing the Atlas on April 16, 2013 at 10:39 am
[…] we decided to find more people. The next beach was Playa Caracas (Red Beach), which Guido jokingly referred to as “crowded.” Indeed, there were a couple dozen people there, splashing and playing […]
By The Beaches of Vieques | Browsing The Atlas on April 16, 2013 at 12:59 pm
So close to nature and away from urban noise. The Island of Vieques is a dream place to visit.
By Island Traveler on April 17, 2013 at 4:33 am
What an awesome adventure. You got some great pics. Wild horses are very cool, though I haven’t seen any up close during my travels yet.
By Quirky Travel Guy (@quirkytravelguy) on April 18, 2013 at 11:26 pm