I am no stranger to aircraft museums, but I’m about to announce my new favorite: the Foynes Flying Boat Museum in County Limerick, Ireland. Never before has the history of flight been brought to life for me in the way it was at Foynes, where a full-scale replica of a Boeing 314 has been reproduced to explore.
Mary, our guide, greeted us at the door and took us into a small screening room where we watched footage from the late-1930’s when Foynes was the center of the aviation world. I’m not sure why we don’t know this. It’s a huge piece of history that I haven’t encountered at other museums. Foynes was the landing spot of the Pan Am Clippers after their trans-Atlantic flights. Yet, there is no runway at Foynes; it’s a small terminal building near the coast. The “runway” was the sea across the road.
It’s amazing to me that the earliest trans-Atlantic planes were actually built to land on water. While it makes sense, I can’t help but think it terrifying. What faith those pilots and passengers had in aviation engineering! To me, it seems the flying boats could have sunk just as easily as they stayed afloat. (Perhaps this only illustrates what little mechanical/engineering knowledge I possess.)
But there’s more to the story than just the mechanics of the flying boats.
Imagine this: the sky is pitch-black. There are no street lights in those days, and no lights out on the water. A message is telegraphed to Foynes that a plane will be coming in to land within the next few hours. The Horseman Crier is alerted and he rides into the countryside, blowing his bugle and waking the team of villagers who will help guide the plane into port. They collect down at the water’s edge and go out onto the black water in their boats, setting off flares to create a makeshift runway that the plane will see from the sky. I rode the elevator to the observation deck of the museum (only a few stories high) and looked out toward the water, trying to imagine what that must have been like. So incredible to me.
Because of the limitations of early aviation, there were also many times that planes set out to cross the Atlantic, only to have to turn back because of bad weather. It was an occasion such as this that lead to the creation of the Irish Coffee. Foynes was the birthplace of this delectable treat, which we were introduced to via a holographic film.
The characters on the screen played the scene out for us. Here’s the story:
Late one night in the winter of 1943 a flight departed Foynes for Botwood, Newfoundland. After flying for several hours in bad weather conditions, the Captain made the decision to return to Foynes and await better conditions. A Morse code message was sent to the control tower at Foynes to inform them of their return. Staff were contacted to return to work and when the flight landed they were brought to the Airport Restaurant for food and drink to warm them.
When Joe was asked to prepare something warm for the passengers, he decided to put some good Irish Whiskey into their coffees. One of the passengers approached the Chef and thanked him for the wonderful coffee. He asked Joe did he use Brazilian Coffee? Joe jokingly answered, “No that was Irish Coffee!!”
Mary then took us into the small museum café and taught us how to make a proper Irish coffee.
You can find that recipe here.
The Irish coffee capped off what was one of my favorite museum visits ever. I’m still marveling at the fact that I’d never heard anything about these flying boats or Foynes before. But now my knowledge of aviation history is a little more complete.
*Special thanks to Failte Ireland for taking me there.
Have you been to a museum where you learned something that you were surprised isn’t more well-known?
Julie, together you and http://thesilvervoice.wordpress.com/ are changing my previous dubious view of Limerick! That’s a nice portrayal of early trans-Atlantic flight. I don’t travel much but always make a bee-line for the local museum and I prefer the old, dusty ones that no one thought to modernise yet.
Oddly, this was a mix of old and new. What I loved was the stories our guide told us that brought it all to life. I don’t know if a guided tour is the norm, but I’d highly recommend it.
Really enjoyed this post – and thank you Roy for your kind comment! Foynes is just down the road from me. I have the bones of a post in draft form for a year or so….so thank you for reminding me what a wonderful resource this is. I hope you enjoyed the Irish Coffee and that you did not stir it before drinking!
Thank you. I’ll look forward to reading what you have to say about Foynes, too.
Sounds like you had a great guide. Any guide who arranges an Irish coffee lesson has to get a thumbs up. Now the question is… do you remember enough of the steps to pass them along??
Ha ha. I do remember. Now that the weather is getting cold, I’ll have to get out the whiskey and whipping cream, and serve up some Irish Coffee.
And you’ll document it on your blog, yes? 😉
Great post! I think the museum was a highlight of my trip too – I had no idea about that part of aviation history either, but it was really well put together.
Yes. That film footage really set the stage.
Thank you for educating me! I love an occasional spiked coffee. Look forward to the original recipe 🙂
Very cool! A flying boat museum sounds awesome to me. : )
I’m still astounded that I knew nothing about this. Such a critical piece of history.
How bizarre, how bizarre! 18 months ago I read a book about the Pan Am Flying Clippers, “the most luxurious aircraft ever built.” The clipper was leaving England with its first stopover is in Ireland to refuel. (I wonder if the characters had an Irish coffee?! The author did not say. The book is Night Over Water by Ken Follett if you’re interested and it’s a decent read.
I’m definitely going to read that! It sounds like the book is based on fact. All the clippers flying from Europe stopped at Foynes to refuel.
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