Crowds gather to hear jazz on the street in the French Quarter
Where to hear jazz in the French Quarter
You don’t even have to make an effort to hear great jazz when you visit New Orleans. It’s everywhere around you. There are pop-up bands on the streets throughout the French Quarter. And Jackson Square. And in front of Cafe du Monde. Or if you’re lucky (?), maybe you’ll see a jazz funeral procession marching down the street. Essentially, jazz is everywhere you go.
You can go to one of the jazz clubs on Frenchman’s Street. Or, listen to one of New Orlean’s iconic brass bands like we did at the Maple Leaf. That’s where we stood in a narrow little bar and listened to one of the best bands I’ve ever heard. It was actually my second time hearing them. I’d had the privilege of going to hear Rebirth in 2008. It was one of the highlights of my trip and I was eager to hear them again. I discovered they play at the Maple Leaf every Tuesday night, so that’s where we headed, with a hundred other people crammed into a tiny little space.
Rebirth at the Maple Leaf
Jazz has become an institution in New Orleans. It’s something of a legend. Maybe you’ve even heard a little bit of its most sensational legend regarding jazz and the Axeman?
The Axeman
The Axeman was a serial killer who went on a killing spree from 1918-1919. On March 13, 1919, a letter purporting to be from the Axeman was published in newspapers saying that he would kill again at 15 minutes past midnight, but would spare the occupants of any place where a jazz band was playing. That night New Orleans’ dance halls were filled to capacity. People played jazz on their porches and in their living rooms. Music poured into the streets, and tradition was born. There were no murders that night.
The bands are still playing. You can’t walk through New Orleans without hearing jazz. But then, who’d want to?
Browsing The Atlas 
Always a fun evening, night, morning. Just walking down the streets is a kick. I’d never heard the story about the Axeman. I would have been playing a little jazz myself. –Curt
Apparently, they did this as a storyline on ‘American Horror Story.’ I haven’t seen that yet, but I loved hearing all the bands as we walked around. Made the city very festive.
I’m not sure what to make of that Axeman story. What a horrible motivation, but a good ending. I have mixed feelings about it !
I know. It’s bizarre. Probably partly urban legend, though the serial killer and the letter to the newspaper really did exist.
I was only to New Orleans once, but I loved the city! We took some tours, ate great food, and couldn’t get enough jazz. And we were lucky (?) enough to see a funeral procession. Wonderful memories! Thanks for sharing the story of the Axeman. I’d never heard it before.
It sounds so crazy that anyone would want to see a funeral procession, but I’m envious that you got to. I can only imagine.
That story about Axeman is incredible. New Orleans is high up on my list of where I’d love to go.
I bet you’ll love it. There’s so much to see and do.
Sounds a great city and I think I’d merge right in – a glass or two of beer, live music. I’d never usually listen to trad jazz but in its own backyard it would be fantastic.
What a weird story about the axeman! At least psycho killers can appreciate good music too 🙂
You’d think they’d prefer groups like The Killers. 😉
I first heard of the Axeman on American Horror Story, I was fascinated to hear it was a real story when I was there.
I love Jazz and Rebirth was a treat. It was an amazing feat to be crammed in a space so small with hundreds of others. One of the best concerts I had been to in a while.
Listening to Rebirth at the Maple Leaf is definitely not for the claustrophobic or people who don’t like crowds. But if you don’t mind being crammed into a small, humid space, it’s definitely worth it.